Fiji Time...Again

Story & Photos: Russell Johnson

(NOTE: THIS STORY WAS WRITTEN IN 1997, AFTER FIJI'S LAST UPRISING)

Fiji is in trouble again and it shouldn't be.

One reason is that the troubles are centered around Suva, Fiji's capital, which is far removed from the places travelers visit. In fact, the tribal chiefs of West Fiji, which includes Nadi, the location of Fiji's international airport, are talking about seceding. They've had enough, been there, done that...the very same thing, in fact, in 1987 when two coups plunged the country into ten years of economic woe.

About three weeks ago, seven civilians armed with AK-47s, led by a guy who calls himself Colonel Bill and a businessman named George Speight, locked Prime Minister Mahendra Chaudhry and 32 Cabinet ministers and MPs in Fiji's Parliament house. They are demanding a new government that excludes ethnic Indians. Currently, talks to release the hostages are in a stalemate. Up to the minute information can be found on the Fijilive website.

I was in Fiji to do a documentary in 1987 and again in 1997 -- a much happier time -- when Fiji adopted a new constitution offering more rights to ethnic Indians and rejoined the Commonwealth.

It is hard to believe that there is a land of proud, gentle people who, a century ago, ate their enemies, each other and anybody else who got in their way (served with spinach) where cars don’t rumble, TVs don’t blare, where kids say "us" rather than "me" and where everybody sings in perfect harmony.

Fiji is that sort of a place. But you have to get out to the islands to find it. My  wife Pat and I spent a week on a small cruise ship going island to island. And even though it has become an anthem of the country’s tourism industry, we did manage to learn and even wax philosophically about an enigma known as "Fiji Time".

Fiji Time means that ten years after the country was booted out of the Commonwealth, the Queen still appeared on its currency. The $20 bill has her eyes in an unfocussed stare (perhaps trying to affix them on "Empire") while the $2 bill features an older, smiling, more permed Queen making direct eye contact with the consumer. To her left is a picture of a bird called the Kaka. Fiji's Commonwealth status is now on hold...again.

I was there in 1987 to do a documentary on the politics, culture and music of Fiji for American Public Radio (now Public Radio International).

Choirs, Coups & Long Canoes – The Last Two Coups
Cruising the Islands - Fiji Time with Captain Cook (REALVIDEO)
Love Those Kids - Children You Wish Were Your Own

Songs of Christmas in Fijian (Real Audio)
Oh Holy Night - Oh Come All Ye Faithful - Silent Night